Suzy Q’s is perfect for soda-fountain time traveling

Amanda Rogers | Fort Worth Star-Telegram | January 27, 2010
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The place: Suzy Q’s Soda Fountain & Grill

The food: Diner-type dishes, plus burgers, sandwiches, salads and an old-fashioned soda fountain

Suzy Qs bison bacon burger is a two-fisted delight. S-T/Kelley Chinn

Suzy Qs bison bacon burger is a two-fisted delight. S-T/Kelley Chinn

The story: More than 50 years ago, Danny Ray’s father opened the first Ray’s Pharmacy in downtown Mansfield. Ray courted his wife, Suzanne, there, dishing up treats at the soda fountain.

When Ray opened his newest pharmacy Dec. 12, he included a soda fountain and named it for his wife.

The hits: The bison bacon burger ($7.99) was the biggest surprise, a two-fisted blend of ground buffalo with bacon smushed into a big patty, topped with lettuce, pickles, tomato and onions and served on a whole-wheat bun. The combination is a spicy, juicy burger, served with a side of crinkle-cut fries.

The chicken salad sandwich ($5.99) is a creamy mix of chicken, onions, celery, dill, mayo and pecans that is so well-blended that only the chunks of red grapes stand out, which give it zip. Served on whole-wheat bread, the sandwich arrived with a side of crispy homemade potato chips.

We also got a side of the crinkle-cut sweet potato fries. which tasted good on their own. With a kicky lemon pesto dip, they were amazing.

Instead of a dinner-plate-size hunk of meat, the chicken-fried steak ($8.99) was an unbelievably sweet, crispy-fried normal-size serving, doused in white cream gravy with a side of mixed vegetables and a slice of Texas toast.

The misses: The milkshakes are made with the good stuff, Blue Bell ice cream, and topped with whipped cream and a cherry in a soda glass. A little more ice cream and a little less milk would make them thicker and creamier.

The setting: Suzy Q’s looks like a set for a Hollywood soda fountain with marble floors, booths, tables and a massive antique oak soda fountain lined with stools. Large windows keep the place open and airy. The attached pharmacy is handy.

— Amanda Rogers